25 November 2010

blessed are those who mourn

[photo by Justin Mott for The New York Times]

blessed are those who mourn, for they will be comforted - matthew 5:4

[Photo by AFP]

[Photo by Pha Lina, Phnom Penh Post]

tragedy has come to cambodia, a nation who is no stranger to grief. & today the country is grieving. & mourning. & struggling to comfort one another. & perhaps for many, reliving loss & trauma from decades long past. please pray, for the healing wings of God to comfort those who mourn in Cambodia today.

emma leslie, the director at the centre for peace & conflict studies here in phnom penh, shared these reflections today. its a long read, but i think it really touches the core of why exactly this tragedy has felt so raw & overwhelming in this city.

Reflecting on Cambodia’s National Day of Mourning

The Water Festival is a time of great celebration in Cambodia. It is always celebrated around November but the dates are dependent on the moon. Some say it’s a chance to honour the rivers which replenish the soil for the harvest. Others say it’s to honour the spirits which make the river miraculous change direction and flow in the other direction. Mostly it’s the time where the people from Cambodia’s countryside take over the capital! Phnom Penh is theirs. They sleep along the streets, they cheer on the boat of their district, they stay up all night and enjoy the myriad of free entertainment from fireworks to concerts and traditional dancing. It’s a grand celebration of life!

The development of a new island in the river, accessed through such a beautiful bridge decorated with a Naga snake, was this year such a focal point for the celebration. So many went to Diamond Island over the holiday period for the trade show, the fun park, the free concerts, the displays and because so many other people were there to see! Such a focal point of joy and happiness, amongst Cambodia’s rural poor.

And therein lies the tragedy. Those that died on the bridge on November 22 were hardly Cambodia’s wealthy. They were yet again the poorest of the poor. Garment factory workers, usually young women out for a good time. Sisters from a tiny village disobeying their mother and running to the capitol to join the fun. They were slum dwellers from a nearby slum soon to be demolished. They were moto-dop drivers, garbage collectors, market sellers, rice farmers. And now 395 such people lay dead in the height of the celebrations.

No doubt there will much discussion and debate by NGOs and human rights groups in weeks to come. How the government could have protected them. How safety standards are not enforced. But this is not the day for such recriminations. Today a prime minister weeps openly with his people, and the streets are silent. Outside every home, along every street, there are the traditional offerings, candles and incense for those who have passed. TV channels read the names of those who have died, replay the footage of that fateful night and update the death toll hour to hour.

It is hard to watch the images without comparing them to so many of the images long associated with Cambodia. It is not a publicity stunt that so many of those interviewed by the media, including Hun Sen’saddress to the nation, refer back to the Khmer Rouge years. Not since then has there been such a tragedy in our history, they say. One woman wept, I lost everyone to the Khmer Rouge, and now I lost my son in this stampede. Who will take care of me now?
Over the past decade the international community has tried hard to persuade Cambodia that an international tribunal was necessary to heal Cambodia’s past, to reconcile the nation, to bring closure. To date the tribunal has seemed an alien legal process, far the from reality of everyday lives and certainly not a mechanism for healing deep seated pains and loss.

But the events of the past few days have felt very different. In every restaurant, in every market, along the street – people go about their business slowly and silently. People watch tv screens in breakfast shops and cry openly. On Wednesday I watched a military truck slowly make its way down the Monivong, the main road through Phnom Penh, filled with coffins. As it past shops and houses, guards, pedestrians, passersby, all stood, almost to attention, to pay respect and honour those nameless corpses going by.

I drove past the hospital and found people giving out water to the many people camped out there trying to find their family members. A huge billboard displayed the unidentified people still indie the hospital, and people clamber over each other to see if they can find their own.
While this has been a deep and great tragedy for Cambodia, something else is going on here. This country has become united in its grief. People are coming together to put right, something which was very wrong. They are standing together to mourn their country people, fully aware that those who died were the least among them, and now deserve the highest honour for their tragic end. And of course all of us looking on wonder how they can bear more suffering, more grief and more pain.

The late Maha Ghosananda, Cambodia’s peace monk often chanted;

The suffering of Cambodia has been deep. From this suffering comes great Compassion.
Great Compassion makes a Peaceful Heart.
A peaceful Heart makes a Peaceful Person.
A Peaceful Person makes a Peaceful Community.
A Peaceful Community makes a Peaceful Nation.
And a Peaceful Nation makes a Peaceful World.
May all beings live in Happiness and Peace.

Perhaps Maha understood that it is the yoke Cambodians must bear on behalf of us all. People who come to Cambodia often comment of the smiles of the children, the happiness of the people. They marvel at the sense of fun, and joy in simple pleasures. They speak of the open hearted way Cambodians welcome them, embrace them and befriend them. Perhaps this is what Maha speaks of – the joy that is born of suffering. Perhaps Cambodia suffers so much so that compassion can be.

For the past 48 hours Cambodian television channels have received donations from around the country for the victims’ families and the injured survivors. No amount is too small to announce on the television recognising the contributions of even the poorest people. From this suffering comes great compassion.

One boy told of a man who saw him trapped under the feet of the people on the bridge. He bent down and lift the boy up and put him on his shoulders so he was above the crowd. Later the boy realised he was riding on the shoulders of a dead man. From this suffering comes great compassion.

What we learn through the events of the past few days is that sense of national identity and reconciled togetherness cannot come from outside. It comes from the shared suffering, losses histories and processes which people experience for themselves. In many South East Asian nations those shared histories are days of liberation, celebrating anti colonial struggles and the pride of self determination. Cambodia has no just day of celebration or national unity. Cambodia’s unity seems always to come through her suffering. Piles of shoes belonging to the deceased – in the Khmer Rouge years and again today. The mass graves of the Killing Fields, parallel to lines of bodies along the river bank of the past two days.

Today is Cambodia’s National Day of Mourning. Today, one after another Cambodians are laying flowers and burning incense at the fateful bridge. This is their time, where they stand together as a nation and grieve. This is not just grief for those who died in this incident. This is truly a National Day of Mourning for all the suffering they have endured. This is the time they rally and unite to put right something which went very wrong. This is their moment of national unity. This is the suffering they bear, from which compassion is born. As a prime minister weeps with his people, Maha’s words echo over this timeless land;

"Our journey for peace begins today and every day.
Each step is a prayer, each step is a meditation, each step will build a bridge."


Ironic, yet true. Cambodians will wipe their tears, and continue to build their nation, heal their hearts and show great compassion. Not just to each other, but to the world.

Emma Leslie Phnom Penh, November 25, 2010




12 October 2010

& what do you do?


while we were in north american this summer/fall we made a few presentations about our work in cambodia. i thought i'd post the slides here, in case you've ever wondered just what exactly it
is we do here.
Talstras in Cambodia

and while i'm at it, MCC British Columbia just came out with its Prayer Booklet for 2011. If you have a moment, you can read about the experiences of MCC workers in British Columbia, Colombia, Cambodia, El Salvador, and Zambia. (we're on page 21 & 22, click the image to download)


3 October 2010

overheard

amanda: i had a dream that i saw our baby & it was a boy with very short legs

daniel: i had a dream you were a gecko

1 October 2010

what a shame! [laughter + swine flu]

while en route to north america & back again, we spent some time in the shanghai airport. both times we were entertained by this swine flu public service video playing at our gate.
the title is "how to protect yourself from being attacked by the influenza a(h1n1)"
enjoy...



i can't speak a lick of mandarin & at the risk of being hypocritical, we got a kick out of the english translation for this little ditty. some favorite lines...

"swine flue comes from America, spreads around the world...what a shame!"

"if you have a cough or sneezing, stop your mouse & nose with paper. throw the paper in the garbage can. social morality!"

"although the epidemic situation is nervous, we should have a good mood"

"don't drill the crowd to join in the fun. dangerous!"

"if there were patients in the place where you live, don't have a no purpose stroll outside"


expo + belly

[shanghai expo + belly]

29 September 2010

pizza!



student pizza party

for the last 2 years one of my [amanda's] primary roles has been working with graduate students at the royal university of agriculture. its been a pleasure working with the same group of 16 students [15 boys & only 1 brave girl] studying english academic & scientific writing.
last spring to celebrate the end of the classroom portion of their masters program [now they begin research + thesis writing] we celebrated with a pizza party [!]

it was a good time of spending time with the students outside of class. they surprised daniel & i by having the restaurant play "happy birthday" over the loudspeakers [it wasn't either of our birthdays...] & presented us with a special mango cake. then each student stood up & gave a small speech wishing us "successful, more beautiful, & a baby"


house stomach [baby]

ultrasound - waving & foot
[20 weeks & a little wave]

in cambodia the word for "pregnant" literally translates as "to have a house stomach", which seems pretty charming, indeed.

we are excited & nervous & thrilled & thankful that amanda's [rapidly expanding] belly has become a home for this little person & we would love your prayers for his/her safe arrival sometime around january 29!

25 September 2010

mountains beyond mountains [visit to terrace]


the second half of our sabbatical this summer was spent on the west coast, most of it up in northern BC in daniel's hometown of terrace. we did a little hiking, biking, kayaking, ocean fishing, family reunioning, taco tuesdaying, celebrated jack & hilda's 35th wedding anniversary & several birthdays, explored prince rupert, had lots of evening fires & spent a lot of time catching up with old friends & family. it was lovely & a hard place to leave.

Talstra Family
[the whole talstra clan with sunflowers! & umbrellas! - photo by sarah zimmerman]

20101
[snapshots from a month in terrace - by christina, nathania & us]

2010

[& yes, we do have the cutest nieces and nephews ever]